Grown-up Children

We just spent a wonderful two weeks with my son Eric Bates, who took some time off during the last months of his current show, Sequence 8, to visit us.  Throughout our journey in South America, we have listened to several campground discussions about the difference between travelers and tourists.  Some people take their perception of where they fit on this continuum very seriously.  Wherever it is that we fit, our pace and energy were dialed up a few notches with the arrival of a 27-year old circus artist.   Like our daughter Janique, who was with us earlier this month, Eric had packed a list-of-things-to-do-on-this-trip that we were happy to help him check off – surfing; climbing; motorcycling; camping that included campfires.

As a mother, it is a pleasure to watch your children play at any age, but the best part of this trip for me was the chance to share two weeks of everyday life with a child who is now a grown man.  (Granted, everyday life this year means following a big motorcycle in a little van from one incredible place to another.) 

First Pisco Sour (or was it something else)

When I write this blog, I am aware of making conscious decisions about the self I choose to present.  In the van I may be grumpy or impatient, but on the blog, this is tucked away.  I am sunny and curious and loving life.  I admire it when a writer is willing to paint themselves in darker colors (selfish, spiteful, proud or vain), even if I end up liking them less.

One of the things that was wonderful about Eric’s visit was that we were a family together, but as grown-ups.  Living together for 2 weeks, we were our real selves.  We didn’t keep all the grumpy corners completely tucked in.  They flapped about a bit after a long ride or before dinner or while waiting for one thing or another. We felt them smooth out again with a snack, a shower, a campfire or the feel of the wind around the windshield.

One of the things I loved the best is that my adult son has not forgotten how to be a child.  This is not an unusual quality in a circus artist, and when I see Eric on stage or interacting with children or trying to communicate in a language he has never studied, it doesn’t surprise me, much.  But this man who cradles cats and pets dogs and saves stories to read aloud in the car was not so much unexpected as an inspiring (http://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/My-road-to-hell-was-paved.html).

Campsite cat

Hotel dogs

At the climbing gym-pizza restaurant-Belgian beer bar

Our visit started in Santiago where, once again, we were taken in by the wonderful, generous, warm Rojas Moffat family.  We are so lucky that they have adopted not just us, but also our children!

Rojas Moffat family (Emilio must be at university)

Chess Tournament

Ellie as Eric

After sorting out motorcycle rentals, we headed south toward Osorno where we had arranged for a BMW G650GS for Eric for a week.  We chose a circuit that would take us on a loop in northern Patagonia, crossing the Andes into Argentina and returning, (volcano gods permitting), via Pucon and the volcano of Villarica. 

First, a side trip to Pichilemu for some surfing.

Surfer dude

Punta de Lobos, Pichilemu

Surfing with jellyfish the size of dinner plates

Then two days of driving to Osorno for the bike.  On the same morning we picked up the bike, we did an incredible drive over the Andes to Villa la Angostura in Argentina.  Moving too fast for many photos, however. 

Checking out the bike

BMWG650GS

Never too much of a hurry for berry picking

Lago Espejo near Villa La Angostura

Bouldering near Bariloche

Fingers of God

Bikers

You are in Chile

Villarica, when we were there

Villarica the next day!

On our last day on the bike, we left Futrono (south of Pucon), heading the long way round Lago Ranco to Osorno.  Eric stopped for gas, Luc stopped to put some air in his tires.  I started around one of the most beautiful lakes among the many in this part of the world.  Eric passed me after a bit.  We met up again on the south side of the lake and made, then ate, some sandwiches while waiting for Luc.  Then the phone rang.  It was Luc, calling from the little hospital of Futrono, he had been bitten by a dog.  Everything was fine, only 5 stitches, he would take the short way round and meet us in Osorno.  We later stopped in La Union, where the 5 stitches were replaced with 6 (made of some sort of less-infectable material) and he started the series of 5 rabies shots.  (He is quite relieved they no longer do these shots in the belly.)  Eric got some extensive video.  I couldn't look.

Lago Ranco

Keeping blood out of the boot

Suiting up for the rain

We had some of our first rain of this whole trip near Chillan while driving back to Santiago. The same storm dumped huge amount of rain in the north, flooding places that haven't seen rain for many years.

Friends Brent and Maya Bratia McCoy arrived in Santiago from their 5-month South American adventure just when we did.  We spent their last day here telling stories and walking around Santiago from one meal to another. They the three of them went to the airport together that evening to return to Vermont.  Our time in Chile is richer for their visit.

Oasis in the desert

Luc and the Andes of Argentina

It turns out that Luc loves this traveling life.  I think he could continue on indefinitely, as long as he is within reach of summer weather.  It is not so different than the skiing life, after all, when he was on the road more than he was home.

Sunset in Vina

Certainly the limitations that are inherent to our mode of travel and our personalities means we miss many things.  We avoid big cities (unless we have friends there) as it is too hard to maneuver the van and the bike.  We don't drive at night, so the Lonely Planet's guide to South American nightlife goes completely unread.  We avoid crowds when we can, and have even been irritated when end of summer vacationers intrude on our solitary enjoyment of their national parks.  We cook most of our meals in the van, so we know our way around the produce markets better than the restaurant menus.  In all, we could make a life of this, except...

At home in Santiago with Diego, Catroina and family

Except that I also miss our family and our friends.  For Luc this is nothing new, but for me, well, it is harder than I thought.   I am happiest when we are taken in by a family, either old friends or a new family in a campground.  The best, of course, is when our own family comes to visit.

Janique and Luc at el Bosque

So for me, these last few weeks, when our daughter Janique visited and we drove up (1500k each way) to San Pedro de Atacama, was an oasis in the desert in more than one sense.

First Pisco Sour

Janique, taking a break from a cold and damp winter in Portland, Oregon, was after beach and desert. First, we stayed again with our friends Diego and Catroina in Santiago.  We ate wonderful meals with them, and played many games with their kids, who were enjoying the end of their summer vacation.  We took public transportation into the city to do the city things we often miss.  Two stand-outs were a visit to Pablo Neruda's Santiago house and a second trip to the fish market.  Luc and Janique then went out in search of a tent while I slept off a round of food poisoning.

Formidable Rummikub player

Santiago Fish Market

Ellie in Janique's glasses

At La Chascona, Neruda's house in Santiago

It took us three days of desert driving (beach camping at night) to reach San Pedro de Atacama.

Desert Driving

Mano del Desierto

More Desert Driving

Janique charming the mechanics during an oil change

  (Luc left the motorcycle in Santiago so we could have more time with Janique).  This little town is a true oasis in the desert.  It is surrounded by salt flats and canyons and thermal baths and lunar landscapes.  The snow covered Andes are not too far away, providing well-regulated irrigation to the green trees in this one-story adobe town.  It is paradise for adventurers, with hikes and bikes and baths and tours of all kinds.

Puritama Hot Springs

In the secret canyon

Valle de la Luna

Andes are never far away

River crossing

After a salty swim

Valle de la Luna

There are excellent restaurants, and plenty to do.  We rented bikes, found what felt like a secret canyon, explored ruins, and went on a late-night astronomy tour with an passionate frenchman, Alain Maury, who runs three tours a night, one each in Spanish, English and French.  Fifteen minutes out of town, the bus driver turns a corner in the desert and turns off his driving lights.  The sky opens up ahead of you.  We climb out and huddle around him.  Alain points his laser at the sky and talks for a hour.  The Southern Cross.  The constellations of the zodiac.  The view of the heavens that has been the same forever, except that they way we see it has not.  The planets (in a plane, that is why they are called planets) moving differently than the stars.  In the second hour Alain takes the group to each of 10 different telescopes, explaining what each one is pointing to and why it is interesting. Then we are free to squint and stare and marvel for the rest of the hour.  Then we trudge inside where we are served hot drinks and he entertains our questions.  The sky will never be the same.

At the Anexo

Anexo

In Atacama we had a lovely place to stay. the Hostal Anexo.  Janique pitched the new tent, and we settled in under the well-watered trees. Campers, overlanders and hostel guests all shared a beautiful outdoor space, a lovely outdoor kitchen area and the gracious hospitality of Mariella.  And there was a french bakery at the other end of the parking lot. Bonus!

Lunch spot

Bahia Inglesia

Concon Beach

Cristian at the grill

Friends at the barbeque

Barbeque

 

 

Sampling fish a la pobre

At Neruda's Isla Negra house

Isla Negra

Another 3 days back to Vina with a tour of different Pacific beaches.  We spent a lovely weekend with our friends Cristian and Soledad, which included another incredible chilean barbeque, then a sad goodbye at the airport.  We are looking forward to having Janique closer to home next year!

Aconcagua "the tallest mountain outside of Asia"

Mendoza winery tour

Ready to pick

A family of wines

Tasting

The following week, more family was coming to Santiago, so we hopped over the pass at Portillo to visit friends from France who live (we thought) near Mendoza, Argentina.  We rented bikes and did a wonderful day of vineyard visiting in Mendoza, then headed off toward Cordoba, where it turned out Edwige and Chris really live.

Edwige and Chris at the Casa de Wanda

Stones from all different parts of Argentina

They left Les2Alpes with their 2 kids and bought a bed and breakfast, La Casa de Wanda, in a beautiful valley to the west of the Sierras.  Since then they have been working their personal magic on this already charming spot.  I'm so glad we got to spend time with them, and hope they follow through on their promise to visit in Valle Nevado when I am there in September.

Back in Santiago, Eric arrived this morning, and our adventures have already begun!  Heading to Osorno to ride motorcycles with a stop in Pichilemu for some surfing on the way.  Our daily excitement factor has just been dialed up another notch!