Grown-up Children

We just spent a wonderful two weeks with my son Eric Bates, who took some time off during the last months of his current show, Sequence 8, to visit us.  Throughout our journey in South America, we have listened to several campground discussions about the difference between travelers and tourists.  Some people take their perception of where they fit on this continuum very seriously.  Wherever it is that we fit, our pace and energy were dialed up a few notches with the arrival of a 27-year old circus artist.   Like our daughter Janique, who was with us earlier this month, Eric had packed a list-of-things-to-do-on-this-trip that we were happy to help him check off – surfing; climbing; motorcycling; camping that included campfires.

As a mother, it is a pleasure to watch your children play at any age, but the best part of this trip for me was the chance to share two weeks of everyday life with a child who is now a grown man.  (Granted, everyday life this year means following a big motorcycle in a little van from one incredible place to another.) 

First Pisco Sour (or was it something else)

When I write this blog, I am aware of making conscious decisions about the self I choose to present.  In the van I may be grumpy or impatient, but on the blog, this is tucked away.  I am sunny and curious and loving life.  I admire it when a writer is willing to paint themselves in darker colors (selfish, spiteful, proud or vain), even if I end up liking them less.

One of the things that was wonderful about Eric’s visit was that we were a family together, but as grown-ups.  Living together for 2 weeks, we were our real selves.  We didn’t keep all the grumpy corners completely tucked in.  They flapped about a bit after a long ride or before dinner or while waiting for one thing or another. We felt them smooth out again with a snack, a shower, a campfire or the feel of the wind around the windshield.

One of the things I loved the best is that my adult son has not forgotten how to be a child.  This is not an unusual quality in a circus artist, and when I see Eric on stage or interacting with children or trying to communicate in a language he has never studied, it doesn’t surprise me, much.  But this man who cradles cats and pets dogs and saves stories to read aloud in the car was not so much unexpected as an inspiring (http://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/My-road-to-hell-was-paved.html).

Campsite cat

Hotel dogs

At the climbing gym-pizza restaurant-Belgian beer bar

Our visit started in Santiago where, once again, we were taken in by the wonderful, generous, warm Rojas Moffat family.  We are so lucky that they have adopted not just us, but also our children!

Rojas Moffat family (Emilio must be at university)

Chess Tournament

Ellie as Eric

After sorting out motorcycle rentals, we headed south toward Osorno where we had arranged for a BMW G650GS for Eric for a week.  We chose a circuit that would take us on a loop in northern Patagonia, crossing the Andes into Argentina and returning, (volcano gods permitting), via Pucon and the volcano of Villarica. 

First, a side trip to Pichilemu for some surfing.

Surfer dude

Punta de Lobos, Pichilemu

Surfing with jellyfish the size of dinner plates

Then two days of driving to Osorno for the bike.  On the same morning we picked up the bike, we did an incredible drive over the Andes to Villa la Angostura in Argentina.  Moving too fast for many photos, however. 

Checking out the bike

BMWG650GS

Never too much of a hurry for berry picking

Lago Espejo near Villa La Angostura

Bouldering near Bariloche

Fingers of God

Bikers

You are in Chile

Villarica, when we were there

Villarica the next day!

On our last day on the bike, we left Futrono (south of Pucon), heading the long way round Lago Ranco to Osorno.  Eric stopped for gas, Luc stopped to put some air in his tires.  I started around one of the most beautiful lakes among the many in this part of the world.  Eric passed me after a bit.  We met up again on the south side of the lake and made, then ate, some sandwiches while waiting for Luc.  Then the phone rang.  It was Luc, calling from the little hospital of Futrono, he had been bitten by a dog.  Everything was fine, only 5 stitches, he would take the short way round and meet us in Osorno.  We later stopped in La Union, where the 5 stitches were replaced with 6 (made of some sort of less-infectable material) and he started the series of 5 rabies shots.  (He is quite relieved they no longer do these shots in the belly.)  Eric got some extensive video.  I couldn't look.

Lago Ranco

Keeping blood out of the boot

Suiting up for the rain

We had some of our first rain of this whole trip near Chillan while driving back to Santiago. The same storm dumped huge amount of rain in the north, flooding places that haven't seen rain for many years.

Friends Brent and Maya Bratia McCoy arrived in Santiago from their 5-month South American adventure just when we did.  We spent their last day here telling stories and walking around Santiago from one meal to another. They the three of them went to the airport together that evening to return to Vermont.  Our time in Chile is richer for their visit.